A closed veil, the thin membrane under the mushroom cap, means a young mushroom; an open veil means an older mushroom. Since mushrooms taste richer and richer as they age, you want to look for the older ones for the biggest flavor.

Do this: sauté sliced mushrooms in a little butter and garlic; after they release their liquid and it cooks off, deglaze the pan with a splash of red wine and soy sauce. Season with thyme, cayenne pepper, and lemon juice- delicious!