Save chicken liver and gizzards for another use; reserve the neck, if included, for the stock.

Fill a scrupulously clean sink or a large stock pot with water; submerge chicken, then drain it, several times; empty sink or stock pot, refill, and repeat as necessary until the water is clear. This will aid in producing a clear stock. Pat dry and sprinkle chicken evenly inside and out with salt and pepper to taste.

Set the Insta-Pot or slow cooker sauté setting to high; add oil or butter and, when hot, add chicken and cook, turning occasionally, until chicken is slightly browned on all sides. Remove to a platter. Add onion and celery to pot and sauté until softened and beginning to brown, 8 to 10 minutes. Add garlic and cook until fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes. Pour in about a cup of water and scrape up any browned bits; place a trivet on top of the cooked aromatics and add the chicken, breast side up (add the neck if using), and tuck the bay leaves and peppercorns around the sides of the chicken.

Add enough water to cover by 1 inch, seal, making sure the pressure valve is closed, and cook under high pressure for 40 minutes. Allow pressure to release naturally, about 15 minutes. Remove the chicken to a platter and, when cool enough to handle, pull the meat from the bones, returning the skin and carcass to the pot. If necessary, add additional water to the pot to cover the carcass completely. Seal, making sure the pressure valve is closed, and cook under high pressure for 60 minutes. Allow pressure to release naturally, about 15 minutes.

The chicken meat will be moist and flavorful, perfect for a myriad of uses over the next few days. We use it to make sandwiches, or chicken salad; or add it back to the stock for chicken noodle soup, matzoh ball soup, etc.

Set a large colander over a large bowl or stock pot and strain the broth, pressing to extract as much liquid as possible; discard solids. Strain broth again through a fine-mesh strainer or colander lined with cheese cloth. Taste the broth; if it tastes a little weak, transfer to a pot over medium-high heat, bring to a boil, and reduce, tasting occasionally, until it suits you. Let cool to room temperature, then refrigerate in a covered container overnight; remove the congealed fat from the top of the stock and reserve for flavoring matzoh balls, dumplings, dough for chicken pot pie, etc.