Peel and devein the shrimp, leaving the tail segment intact. In a shallow bowl, stir together the flour, ½ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper.

In a large, nonreactive frying pan, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Toss half of the shrimp in the flour mixture to coat evenly, shaking off the excess. Add to the hot oil and cook, turning occasionally, until opaque throughout when pierced with the tip of a knife, about 3 minutes. Transfer to a plate and tent with aluminum foil to keep warm. Repeat with the remaining shrimp, adding more oil as needed.

Reduce the heat to medium-low. Heat 2 tablespoons of the butter and the garlic together in the pan, stirring frequently, until the garlic softens and is fragrant but not browned, about 2 minutes. Add the wine and the lemon zest and juice and bring to a boil over high heat. Cook until reduced by half, about 1 minute. Reduce the heat to very low.

One tablespoon at a time, whisk in the remaining 10 tablespoons (5 oz/155 g) butter, letting each addition soften into a creamy emulsion before adding more.

Return the shrimp to the sauce and mix gently to coat well. Remove from the heat and season the sauce with salt and pepper. Transfer to a warmed serving dish and sprinkle with the parsley. Serve at once, passing the lemon wedges on the side.

Change it up: Scallops are good with this sauce, too. Small bay scallops will cook in

about the same amount of time as the shrimp. If you opt for large sea scallops, sear them in an ovenproof frying pan over high heat for about 1 minute on each side, then slip the browned scallops, still in the pan, into a preheated 4OO° F (2OO° C) oven and cook until barely opaque throughout, about 4 minutes. Transfer to a plate, cover to keep warm, and proceed with the recipe to make the sauce.