Combine the salt, sugar, black pepper, and cayenne in a large mixing bowl. Add the ribs and toss until the pieces are somewhat evenly coated. Set aside to marinate while you light the fire.

Set up your grill or smoker for low-and-slow cooking with wood chunks (see page 68).

When the wood begins to smolder, put the ribs directly over the heat, close the grill, and smoke at 225° F for 3 hours. Add more hot coals and a few wood chunks every 30 minutes or so, and adjust the vents as needed to maintain a steady temperature.

Dice the onions and carrot and put them in a large aluminum pan with the rosemary and beer.

Transfer the ribs to the aluminum pan, cover the pan with foil, and return to the grill. Smoke for about 8 more hours (adding more hot coals and a few wood chunks every 30 minutes or so, and adjusting the vents as needed to maintain a steady temperature of 250° F

to 275° F), until the meat is very tender and pulls away easily from the bone.

Serve the ribs with a few spoonfuls of the rich braising liquid.